Bocadillo: Lunch is found where it is found, occurs when hungry, trail side, in a bar or in a restaurant. Where hunger and possession meet, we eat the bocadillo. Hunger and possession. This midday meal is often had in one of the many villages (more…)
To avoid the heat of the day, the pilgrim covers just as many kilometers as possible in the cool morning air. The pace quick in these early hours, stopping only for a picture or two and then for lunch, our bocadillo. How many k shall we walk today? Depende (It depends).
The morning hours prove delightful—once the senses have awoken. As the sun slowly rises a church steeple casts a shadow over its congregation and the vast countryside brightens before us. This time of day provides great lighting for those pictures we take back home, on camera or in our minds. Rolling wheat fields. A village in the distance. Pilgrims fore and aft. We are alive.
(Adapted as a travel article from my forthcoming book, “Su Camino…”)
ALBERGUES on the Camino de Santiago are a ubiquitous lot, many in every village, town and city—from the diminutive to the grand. Whether conversions from ancient pilgrim hospitals or modern, utilitarian edifices, they beckon at day’s
end. Trailside or a short few meters out of the way, shelter from summer sun and winter cold—so very little more, but all one needs. (more…)
Without caffeine, senses still dull from the early hour and the many kilometers behind, legs heavy, the pilgrim finds the Camino markings of yellow arrows and scallop shells in the early light and seeks out breakfast, but more importantly, café con leche. And too, maybe, a croissant or better still, a slice of Spanish omelet. We awaken.
The day begins, senses dull from the previous day’s exertion, perhaps an hour before good light. Eyes held closed as long as possible as other walkers of the Camino are heard nearby, rustling through bags, dressing, finding a lost whatever. Each morning starts the same. This fight to put off the inevitable. Putting off the effort to get up from the bunk, wriggling out of the (more…)