< Norte Day 7 — Norte Day 9 > < Norte Index >
31 kilometers, 7 hours, passing through Islares, Rioseco, La Magdalena, and Liendo.
With a great night’s sleep, it was back to walking and feeling good. It always makes a difference in the day when you sleep well. Castro-Urdiales is a beautiful bay-side city with the nicest apartment buildings I can remember ever seeing. Most of these edifices were built on stanchions one level above the ground and of brick or block. It seemed as if architects had been competing with one another to ensure there were no drab, utilitarian buildings in their wonderful town. I’m not a city dweller, but I think I’d be happy there. A fifth-floor apartment facing the sea, the crashing surf, my balcony—like so many I saw—adorned with bright flowers flowing from the railing in a wave of reds and purples. Yep, happy, I tell you.
Before long the trail led me out of the city and along the coast, often between the cliffs and the A-8 freeway, which runs east-west throughout northern Spain. Catching up to Sheng, we walked together until she saw another pilgrim she knew. Sheng is from Shanghai, China. She likes to laugh and had a great, welcoming smile, many interests, and an inquisitive nature. She asked me, and others, many questions about our lives and interests away from the Camino. Her time on the Norte was a break from her French studies near Toulouse, France. Learning that I had traveled to and spent time in South America, Sheng asked where she should visit one day, where she might study Spanish.
The best part of the day, besides the company and excellent views to the sea, was the weather, which had turned up the dial to perfection. In the 22 degrees C range, I’d say, (70s F) and clear. My pictures did not do the beauty of this part of the world any justice. You be the judge.
From Castro U. the route followed the coast for a while then turned inland and, thankfully, away from the autovia (freeway), following the Aqüera River. At Rioseco, a beautiful church, the Parroquia De San Vicente De Guriezo, away from our path, sat on a hillock above the valley floor. If this had been a shorter day, I would have liked to visit the old place. It looked fabulous from below. The centuries-old place, built of local sandstone I would guess, lifted above a mysterious looking oak forest. I could only imagine how it was located there on that rise to take in its domain, and the history it has witnessed.
Further upriver, at La Magdalena, the route turned into eucalyptus forests and climbed away from the river valley. This section of dirt track went on for many delightfully peaceful kilometers before dropping under the A-8 and into Liendo. Though a plantation, this enchanted forest our route passed through evoked images of elfin beings taking in the delights of the day as much as me.
In Liendo, after lunch and a review of how I felt, going on seemed like a good idea. A large municipal albergue sat within view of my lunch spot, but the day was still a little young. After a rest, a sandwich and a coke, and of sound body and mind, I decided to go on to Laredo.
The Albergue Buen Pastor, my planned destination in Laredo, was easy to find. Hendrick lay sleeping on a bed by the window, his stinky clothes hanging on the balcony to air out. Sheng appeared shortly after I did. There were many other places in town, but we ended up there, together again. Funny, that.
Soon, sitting at a sidewalk cafe, having a glass of wine, the world flowed by. If not for the language spoken, the people looked very much like at home. By the way, away from the touristy towns, a glass of white wine was always €1.30, less than $1.45. I needed to eat something. As usual, nothing opened until 8:00.
Sheng, Hendrik and I met later for dinner. Sheng hunted for the best place with seafood on the menu, and she didn’t mind what she would pay for it. We had a wonderful meal at the restaurant El Adamio on Calle de Ruamayor, just off of the Plaza Constitución.
